At Sea heading for the Malvinas (Falklands)

Woke in the night to distinct movement but went straight back to sleep. Up at 7.30am and at 7.55am gentle music started over the PA and our leader, Solan’s voice in gentle tones giving us some information about the day, though he did say it was 8.55am which gave us a fright.

When we headed for breakfast we found the ship had been all dressed up for Christmas.

Each day a daily program appears on TV screens. I had hoped to share a better copy but the quark system has a glitch so here is a photo I took of a screen.

As you can see it’s a busy day. All the presenters were excellent so much to be learned. I took lots of notes but some may be more appropriate when we actually visit the places.

We spent a fair bit of time outside on deck as we were being followed by many sea birds. As my photographer friends know, taking moving objects from a moving object is fun! Here are my best efforts.

A couple of decks to choose from. Mostly black-browed albatross and great southern petrels.

The food has been way beyond expectation for an expedition ship. Here is afternoon tea.

Diets clearly out the window and no sign of seasickness thus far. Though some fellow passengers are not to be seen.

I also thought today would be a good one to introduce our ship – The Ocean Endeavour.

Originally built as a ferry and kitted to take 450 passengers, it was completely refurbished in 2015.

Here is what the Quark blurb says:

Ocean Endeavour is a comfortable, well-appointed small expedition ship expertly engineered to explore the Polar Regions. The ship has an ice-strengthened hull, Zodiacs for exploration and remote landings, and advanced navigation equipment. This refurbished vessel offers a superb guest experience with an expansive choice of cabin categories, large cabins and common areas, a sundeck and observation area, plenty of deck space for polar landscape viewing, and lounges for learning and reflection. The ship’s interiors have a contemporary aesthetic that provides a bright and spacious feel throughout.

Ocean Endeavour is also the only polar adventure ship in Antarctica focused on health and wellness and offers a contemporary approach to cuisine and newly-designed health and fitness features. Facilities include a spa serviced by organic spa provider VOYA, His and Hers saunas, a saltwater pool, a gym, and a juice and smoothie bar. Complimentary activities include yoga and stretching classes, an exclusive Polar Photography program, the Scientists in Residence program, and hosts more adventure options than any other Quark Expeditions vessel. The ship also has a polar library and a Polar Boutique for gifts and any needed gear.

Aboard

• Chef-prepared meals with complimentary wine with dinner
• Bar staffed by a professional bartender serving a selection of soft drinks, juices, liquors, spirits, and beer are also available and can be charged to your shipboard account
• Nautical lounge
• Polar library
• Gym
• Newly built saunas and spa facilities and wellness program
• Lecture Theatre
• Polar Boutique
• Sundeck and plenty of deck space for observation

Activities

• Snowshoeing (included)
• Zodiac Cruising (included)
• Kayaking (additional charge)
• Stand-up Paddleboarding (additional charge)
• Camping (additional charge)
• Cross-Country Skiing (additional charge)
• Mountaineering (additional charge)

Ship Specifications 

• Staff and Crew 124
• Guests 199
• Length 137
• Draft 5.6
• Ice Class 1B
• Cruising Speed 15 knots
• Registration Bahamas
• Lifeboats 6

So what does Ice Class 1B mean? It seems to be a Finnish – Swedish classification.

Traffic restrictions in the Baltic Sea during winter months are based on the Finnish–Swedish ice classes. These restrictions, imposed by the local maritime administrations, declare the minimum requirements for ships that are given icebreaker assistance, for example “ice class 1A, 2000 DWT“.

In the Finnish-Swedish ice class rules, merchant ships operating in first-year ice in the Baltic Sea are divided into six ice classes based on requirements for hull structural design, engine output and performance in ice according to the regulations issued by the Swedish Maritime Administration and the Finnish Transport and Communications Agency (Traficom). International classification societies have incorporated the Finnish-Swedish ice class rules to their own rulebooks and offer equivalent ice class notations that are recognized by the Finnish and Swedish authorities.

Ships of the highest ice class, 1A Super, are designed to operate in difficult ice conditions mainly without icebreaker assistance while ships of lower ice classes 1A, 1B and 1C are assumed to rely on icebreaker assistance. In addition there are ice class 2 for steel-hulled ships with no ice strengthening that are capable of operating independently in very light ice conditions and class 3 for vessels that do not belong to any other class such as barges. In offical context and legislation, the ice classes are usually spelled with Roman numerals, e.g. IA Classification societies may sometimes use somewhat different distinguishing marks for Finnish-Swedish ice classes; for example, 1A Super is defined as Ice Class I AA by the American Bureau of Shipping (ABS) and ICE(1A*) by DNV GL.

Deck Plan 

We were in cabin 4084. So deck 4 and on this diagram top left. As you can see there are many smaller cabins and many being shared by strangers so not sure how that goes. Here is the mud room.

And we both love our new parkas.

Then mandatory zodiac safety briefing with assistant leader Dave Allcorn

No such thing as a “typical” excursion. Back pack over life jacket. Taught the Sailors grip. Sit and slide. Falklands and South Georgia two of the best places on earth (so don’t miss them to just do the Antarctic). Swing around from engine to front. Surf landings sound fun, glad we are relatively fit.

I found a great resource before we left on the birds we might see – check it out here.

Our briefing by Solan on the Falklands was excellent. IAATO, International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators, work together to keep this area as pristine as possible. 60 degrees south is official line to Antarctica. We must leave nothing behind eg tissues plus we must not take anything like rodents or seeds. Excellent bio security methods on board. No drones are allowed. No food. No peeing on shore. New island. Coffins Harbour has been picked as a landing point. This is a Privately owned island. West Point Island. Picked due to weather plus what is there. Look for leeward zodiac points.

Drinks are reasonably priced on board. Wine is complimentary with dinner. They have their own “beer of the day” regime.

Here is the bar beer list.

I tried a snowflake.

Garrie tried a Leffe.

The Leffe is from Belgium. Very sweet and bitter and rated a 4. My cocktail, on the other hand, was a delight and I think cousin Sue would have loved it too.

Our daily “Recaps and briefings” started. Always very interesting and presented by several members of the expedition team (there are 40 of them!)

Firstly the two scientists on board From Penguin Watch talked about their work. Falklands most diverse of places with 230 species of birds recorded. Fabrice, our ornithologist told us there are 5 types of penguins and 1 albatross. Major continent shelf here no more than 200m deep. Claire talked geopolitics. Falklands or Malvinas? Argentina claims inheritance from Spain. 1982 74 days of war, which we all remember. It is strategically important and also environmentally important. Trade routes changed once the Panama Canal was built. Also important as resources possibility. Oil and gas on the continental shelf. Also strategic when it comes to the Antarctic. 2013 Referendum to Falklands asking if they wanted to stay British or go to Argentina. Overwhelmingly voted to stay British. Communications talk. Satellites mostly on the equator hence not good coverage here.

Back to the cabin to dress. This is as fancy as this cruise gets.

So the Captain’s cocktail party where drinks and canapés were provided. (Canapés became a nightly event during our recap and briefings). This is our Expedition leader Solan.

And our Captain Dmytro Ashanin who told us there are 115 crew members from 18 countries. 198 passengers. Plus 40 guides and scientists

Heading for dinner we were greeted with a site we would see nightly from here on in. A full layout of the food we could chose from for our dinner. Head chef and head of hospitality there to explain it all.

This was our first menu.

So a beautiful sunset and off to bed to await our first zodiac landings, tomorrow in the Falklands!