Two blurbs on this amazing place:
One of the largest king penguin rookeries on South Georgia is located on Salisbury Plain. The Murphy and Lucas Glaciers flank the plain, creating a perfect backdrop for photos.
Salisbury Plain lies on the southern most shore of the Bay of Isles, 50km from the western tip of South Georgia. It has the second largest king penguin colony on the island with an estimated 60,000 breeding pairs. This indicates an extraordinary population increase as only 350 breeding pairs were counted at this site in 1912. Historically, Salisbury Plain was a favoured hunting ground for sealers during the 19th century where both fur and elephant seals were taken in large numbers.
It was magical as we sailed in.
A snowy sheath bill joined the ship.
Plenty happening onshore and in the water around us. Seals and penguins.
We were first off the ship and so excited to get on shore. This little guy was the first to catch my eye when we arrived.
Then a king penguin doing his morning exercises.
Garrie kept a watchful eye on the cranky fur seals whilst I kept taking photos. Check out the teeth on this one!
Though the big guys are cranky the pups are just gorgeous.
Just like being in a David Attenborough documentary – again!
The elegance of the king penguins meant I took loads of photos again.
You are just so close to everything, though I fear I had Garrie’s heart under pressure when I stopped near fur seals, most of which didn’t seem much bothered.
This is an adult penguin in moult.
They are just so photogenic.
Whatever they are doing…
As we walked further the numbers grew, with many standing in water to keep cool.
When first discovered it was thought there were two types of penguins here: king and wooly.
Turns out the “wooly” is simply a 12 month old king penguin chick.
Just to prove we were here.
Afternoon clouds rolling down.
A pair reunited.
Chick’s as big as parents.
Had some fun with reflections.
It really was so surreal. Just enjoy a heap more pictures.
This is a chick moulting.
It is easy to just keep taking penguins but the surrounds need to be shared too.
And the seals are around too. Some of them being less than friendly.
Stood for ages watching penguins coming ashore.
The afternoon clouds are also fascinating.
We cruised for a while after our land walk and noticed red headed birds.
Nope, not red-headed at all. Covered in blood from where they had been feasting on a dead seal and they were coming into the water to clean. You can see a gentoo penguin here too. Our third penguin type.
All too soon we are heading back to the ship, which appeared to be about to swamped by the cloud.
It will come as no surprise that I took over 300 photos on this excursion. The big surprise is that I have managed to narrow it down to these few! Last time Quark came here the swell was too big and so they were unable to land so we are feeling very blessed.
Yes there was a beer of the day, Bitburger from Germany. Cocktail of the day a vostock breeze. Rating for bitburger a 5. Description: horehoundish old root beer type stuff.
Another superb dinner. Mushroom soup, pike perch and key lime pie for me and then off to our Recap and Briefing. Love the way they use a picture from the day for the slide show.
Fabrice started the recap with a talk about king penguins. Meet Fabrice
Today we saw many moulting adults. Also adults courting. Some with eggs. Brown fluffy large chicks are 11 months old. Some young ones moulting so 5 types in one colony. Cycle is 14 months.
So the 2nd year is a no go. So 2 chicks every three years. Many small chicks die in winter. So what we saw today are the winter survivors. They are in the water to stay cool as lose heat through their feet. No tail and light grey just Moulted. Three penguins fighting usually 2 males and 1 female. High rate of divorce. No nest so no place to meet again. Not as many females. The males don’t waste time time waiting for the old mate just take the first. Charming.
Johann – marine biologist.
Steady ladies. Johann talked to us about Fur seals. Season is from late oct to beginning of April. Males arrive first. First on the beach the masters. Females arrive nov/dec and a couple of days later they have pups. 90% of pupping in 10 days and most on the beach 6th dec. Mum feeds the pups for 7 days and then mates again. Then female goes foraging for a several days and then feeds pups for a couple of days and then again back to sea. Nursed first 3.5-4 months then female leaves forever. The embryo stays at a point for several months under they are ready to deliver.
Finally Solan.
Hang on. I’m not telling you what he said as that will spoil tomorrow’s blog. Suffice to say he warned us of high winds with gusts 40-50 knots. Here endeth our first day of four on South Georgia. OMG what an amazing, unforgettable day.
Antarctica 2019 