South Georgia – Gritviken – resting place of Shackleton

So after lunch we were treated to a great presentation from the friends of South Georgia. They are doing some amazing work here and we signed up to help save an hectare. How can you not want to save this amazing place?

So here are my notes from the talk. Find out more at www.fosgi.org. And www.sght.org. Told we are having amazing weather. This is the centre of government for South Georgia. We are part of a privileged few to visit here. Gift shop worth visiting when we go ashore. World leading project in removing invasive species. Over 8 years baited to remove all rodents. Now rodent free. South Georgia pippet and the pintail duck (took that this morning) Pippet is the only song bird in Antarctica. Back within three months after being missing for two centuries. New program includes a rodent detection dog in Stanley that came aboard this ship when we were there. Working with Dogs 4 Conservation. Our bio security measures very important. 41 invasive plant species. So trying to stop things coming is easier than eradicating. 1775 Captain Cook found South Georgia. (He thought it was Antarctica). Now also recording archeology of the sealing industry as the returning seals are actually destroying it. After the sealers came the whaling industry. Killed out the southern right whale first. Whaling ceased here 60 years ago. Southern rights breeding off South Australia but calves beaching there and adults coming here are in poor condition so www.happywhale.com being used to keep an eye on whales – please send in pictures. Grey-headed albatross are in trouble in 11 years numbers declined by 40%. Could be bird by-catch elsewhere as local fishers have techniques that stop them catching birds. Long liners are an issue. One albatross every five minutes currently being killed on long lines. Overall a Very positive story. Facebook/southgeorgiaheritagetrust. 100 million more birds due to the rodent eradication.

We were also given a good briefing on what to expect and where not to go.

Starting to see more ice bergs now.

More stunning landscapes.

More lenticular clouds.

The ruins of Grytviken Whaling Station are at the head of the cove, surrounded by spectacular mountains. This whaling station was the hub of the Southern Ocean whaling industry for over 60 years. It was established by Captain Carl Larsen in 1904 and, in its hey day, housed over 300 men and processed more than 54,000 whales in total. In addition, Sir Ernest Shackleton’s grave is also located in the nearby whalers’ cemetery. Today, neighbouring King Edward Point is home to a British Antarctic Survey (BAS) research station and the centre of government administration on the island.

Current 30 knot winds with gusts of 40 and above (50) so warned that one blast of ship’s horn means get back to the zodiacs asap.

The music played with the announcements has been “Georgia” (Willy Nelson), for the past couple of days. Very funny.

This afternoon I took 108 photos total. Kept 50. Many doubles due to wind trying to ensure one would be in focus.

Really enjoyed the museum where we were also able to touch a penguin skin and a fur seal skin and you can understand why they wanted the fur seal pelts. So beautiful to touch. How big are the wandering albatross?

Lots of info and photos from the Endeavour trip.

Imagine that they sailed from Elephant Island to South Georgia in this very small boat. (This is a replica).

We bought our selves some warm gear (hat Garrie, neck warmer for me) made from wool, silk and, wait for it, possum! 60% pure merino wool, 30% possum and 10% silk. Designed in Svalbard and made in New Zealand. (Arctic edge).

We also checked out the post office.

Then started to walk around towards the cemetery.

Found a lone king penguin hanging around.

More bird life. A young and an adult Antarctic tern.

Gentoo penguins.

A Shearwater I think.

Finally to the cemetery and the grave of Earnest Shackleton.

With the help of some of our Expedition Crew, Jaymie, Michelle and Alan, we toasted him with some whiskey and added a little to his grave in tribute. It was well soaked by day’s end.

Spent a fair bit of time with these three on the trip. Jaymie and I have have identical camera gear. Michelle is the photography whizz and we had Alan as our zodiac guide a few times, great people.

Shackleton’s best mate Wild is by his side.

Dandelions around the gravestones are from Norway as buried a handful of dirt from Norway with each body. The things we do that have unthought of long term consequences.

Not a bad view from a cemetery.

Just nearby we spotted our first chinstrap penguin.

More of the pintail ducks.

Back to the whaling station wreckage, side stepping the odd cranky fur seal.

Back to the ship past the Shackleton cross .

Such a beautiful place.

When we arrive back on board we are always greeted with a hot drink, often fantastic hot chocolate but today we Returned to lemon and ginger tea. Yum.

Incoming dark clouds when we were eating dinner. First time I had noticed that the chairs are chained to the floor in the dining room.

Beer of the day. Guinness. Rating a 7. Smooth. Very nice. Tastes like caramelised toffee.

Mike also had a Guinness and had a go at the description – creamy, very smooth. Not a dark beer that slaps your tongue around. Love it!

“Good evening ladies and gentlemen” pause “good evening.” Morning or evening there is always the repeat when Solan speaks over the PA in his delicious creamy voice.

Time for our Recap and briefing.

Claire -geopolitics.

We are all wind burned. South Georgia govt eradicated reindeer from the island. Larsen brought in the reindeer in 1911.

Reindeer used for both sport and a change in diet. Three herds developed. Two by introduction and a third by migration. They did very well. Population grew to 3000 in 1950s and up to 4500. They destroyed a lot of the tussock grass. 2013 push to eradicate. Norway was given the bill and the problem to solve as Larsen started the problem. Used indigenous reindeer specialists from Norway to sort things out with traditional methods.

Michelle. Photography (bio above). Shared a few photos. One of mine. Always does my ego good.

Miko – historian. (And Santa).

Frank Wild. Best friend and right hand to earnest Shackleton. One of the most experienced explorers in the world at that time. 5 Antarctic expeditions – more than anyone in his time. 1st 1901-1904 Discovery, then 1907-1909 Nimrod. Then 1911-1913 Australasian. Scott and Shackleton were enemies (especially from Scott’s perspective), that was the Mawson expedition- the most successful of all Antarctic expeditions. Trans Antarctic (The Endurance) 1914-1915. Last 1921 – 1922 Quest. When Shackleton died and Frank Wild took over and kept going. Wild’s remains brought here in 2011.

Solan. Out to sea tonight. Holding our position. First light. Narrow channel into a new harbour. Tomorrow afternoon hoping to go to St Andrews Bay. Very high standard place but Exposed to open ocean. Nothing between there and Africa so very exposed. May not happen. So ends day two on South Georgia. What will tomorrow bring?