South Georgia – St Andrew’s Bay

So a few ice bergs and some rough seas on the way here and a ship going the other way.

A couple of blurbs on this amazing place: Thousands of breeding pairs of king penguins nest at St. Andrew’s Bay—the largest king penguin rookery on South Georgia, and a wildlife spectacle to behold. Also the Quark appraisal.

An amazing glacier comes right down to the sea. I believe the dark layers are from volcanic explosions.

Ok so we arrived and managed to anchor but winds of 40 knots with gusts up to 50 so we could not launch. The people trying to get into Gritviken today could not get on shore so we feel very blessed to have visited yesterday. This is South Georgia. Took some pics of the wonderful glacier onshore. We now await further news.

Looking for scale? The little dots along the front are penguins and seals.

To entertain us Miko presents on Earnest Shackleton. The boss in the Antarctic is really nature and showing us who is boss today.

1874-1922 Shackleton was only 48 when he died. Born in Ireland. Joined merchant navy at 16. Loved books. Scott was about hierarchy and worried about the competition of Shackleton. A bit unstable as a leader. Asked Shackleton not to explore McMurdo sound. Rivalry. Miko not keen on Scott but does like Mawson.

Nimrod. Turned back on mission to the pole got to 180km and then turned back as he knew they were not going to make it. That’s when he and Wild became great friends. Wild, Shackleton Marshall and Adams. Miko admired that Shackleton’s care for his men trumped his ego.

Next the Endurance trip. This advertisement has become a bit of a legend for this trip But has never been proven as a true thing.

War broke out just months before they left and he offered the ship and men for the war effort but Churchill said to go on the expedition. Much more snow than expected and stuck January 18th – mid summer. Stuck in the Weddell sea. Finally crushed 25th nov. Men moved onto ice floes that were moving north. Finally made elephant island 12th April 1916. Tough place to land. Just a very small piece of land. They strengthened the James Cairns (one of three life boats they had kept – remember the reproduction from the museum yesterday? 6 people set out for South Georgia. April 24th – May 9th 1916. 720 miles. Fantastic navigation to reach South Georgia. Wild stayed at elephant island to look after the rest of the men, 16 Days 1300km. Three were not in a good situation and stayed at first landing place. 36 hours to cross South Georgia. An Epic journey. Shackleton walked to stromness. Arrived 20th May.

Boat sent to rescue the three left in a cave. Three attempts to save the guys at Elephant Island, Yelcho managed finally to get though aug 30th 1916.

Next was the Expedition Quest. 1921-22. As they reached South Georgia Shackleton died of a heart attack. Wild took over and completed the mission.

He never achieved any of his specific targets but he did show devotion to his men, values of a leader he didn’t do well in the real world. Now over 100 years – still known as “the boss”.

Next announcement 4pm. They are lowering a couple of zodiacs and going to check things out. We are on the cusp of it going either way now. We’ll know in another 30-40 minutes whether we can go. If it’s possible they will certainly try it.

I went up and took some more photos from deck 9 and the winds seemed to be gale force to me. 30-40 knots currently apparently.

4.40pm yes we are going to go. Leaving in about half an hour. Told it will be wet and windy on the zodiac and it is a surf landing and a shortened stay (obviously).

The sea being fairly rough so the crew had fun sorting out the zodiacs.

Penguins pop up to see what is going on.

A close up will help you to see the penguins on shore.

The conditions are borderline but we are giving it a go and it certainly looks worth a visit despite the winds and rough seas.

Once on shore, despite two layers (thermals and waterproof pants), the grit stings the legs and I wonder how the penguins remain upright as it is trying to take me off my feet.

Lots of elephant seals and lots and lots of king penguins.

In fact penguins as far as the eye can see.

Worth hearing the noises from the chicks and adults.

The numbers are just gobsmacking and no that penguin is cleaning not headless.

I seriously have no words for this experience. 150,000 penguins, elephant and fur seals crossed with up to 60 knot gusts of winds that whipped up the sand.

I do get a bit cross with people who just ignore instructions, going very close to birds on eggs even though that can mean the end of the egg if they get very disturbed and then leaving backpacks unattended and rain covers blowing off through the colony. I could not be as patient as these fabulous expedition people. It always seems to be the people with the biggest lenses who go the closest. They must be trying to make up for something….

Yes we really were there.

Many adults incubating eggs.

And then I had some tremendous luck.

I think they had just swapped over and it disappeared very quickly. So thrilled to see it. Took a bit of a panorama and more video.

Lots of standing in water again.

The skuas clean up those that don’t make it.

Just an amazing place.

Back down on the beach found these two “teenage” male elephant seals learning how to fight. (Also check the waves in the background. Getting on and off shore was fun.)