South Georgia – Cooper Bay

Seems appropriately named for our last “port of call” for South Georgia.

So we have now entered Cooper Bay but with the forecast the first trick is whether they can anchor the ship in these winds.

If they can anchor they will recheck the weather situation here and decide whether to put down a couple of zodiacs for the crew to check things out and then they’ll decide if we all go. I’m thinking it’s going to be tough to get good pictures even if we go but would love to see a Macaroni Penguin. Thankfully we saw a chinstrap at Grytviken, but only one. They, to me, are the cutest so far, though the gentoo are also funny little things. Who knew penguins came in so many varieties.

3pm another announcement. We are here and anchor dropped. Will now wait and see what happens and re-assess whether the crane can operate and the anchor holds. Next update in 15 minutes. So the 2.30pm suggested time will be at least 4pm I would say. (If we go).

Still it is all about safety and ok we missed the 4.30am opportunity to see macaroni penguins and this is probably our last chance, but I also want to live to see the Antarctic peninsula! Again we are so so glad we chose a cruise that included the Falklands and South Georgia as the wildlife has been spectacular. (The turtles, rays and pelicans back home may not be of any great interest for a while). The photos also cannot describe the experience of being so close to any of these fantastic creatures. The smells are also an intricate part of the experience which is not worrying me, but then I also enjoy the aroma of our flying foxes.

From our porthole we can see Cooper Island and several ice bergs but we need some major rain to wash all the salt spray off.

Note via the map it took us about 2 hours to sail from Gold Harbour to Cooper Bay.

3.15pm still raining and strong winds. Just a one hour cruise but will go and try to see the macaroni colony so dress up warm and waterproof. 3.45pm disembarkation they hope. Woo hoo.

So we saw the macaroni (which means dapper – remember that song – put a feather in his hat and called it macaroni?!). The winds and seas were not friendly so all photos taken from a bobbing (to say the least) zodiac and I managed to have entirely the wrong setting going – I am blaming the new gloves and plastic condom. Then the camera froze – cold perhaps.

So it was with great trepidation that we downloaded something like 110 pics to the iPad. Thankfully, despite camera issues and sitting on a zodiac that was bobbing around like a cork, a few turned out. Not bad when using a lens that really needs a tripod and total stillness. We did bring the tripod with us but it wouldn’t have helped in the zodiac and on land there is so much to see that, again, it would be more of a hindrance so I have just gone handheld with a 75-300mm for the closeups and the Olympus TG5 underwater for the landscapes. This was our only opportunity to see a macaroni penguin. It was worth it. Enjoy.

Simply amazing how these guys climb.

Of course the crispest pic of the day was another snowy sheathbill.

Last couple of macaroni pics.

Weather not being pleasant today.

Onto the seal area and yet more with that recessive gene that causes them to be blonde.

Loads of fur seal pups.

Gentoo penguins on the march.

Also, apologies, but I have realised that I shared a video from here the other day. Easy to be confused about where is where here… I’ll include it again as this is where it should be.

A rugged day.

Gotta love the groups of elephant seals keeping warm together and those Gentoos still running about.

This trip was very cold and we needed a shower and a hot drink when we returned. Took a bit to warm back up.

Just warned that we are underway again and that once we pass the last of South Georgia we will be in open ocean and therefore with much more movement than the last 4 days so to secure anything that can move, like cameras, in drawers and with clothing as opposed to leaving them on the desk. Thought a map of South Georgia and where we went might be good here to put this last four remarkable days into context.

Beer of day. Nice light beer. Carlsberg. Sparky. 7.5 rating. I had a blue lagoon that was actually blue.

Recap and briefing time started with Austin the Rock nerd.

Geologic map. Rocks created as the continents moved apart. Sandstone and turbidity deposition. Definitely needed Rod for translation. A lot of metamorphosis happened. Phyllite cobbles and schist outcrops.

Then Fabrice our ornithologist. The penguins stand in water to stay cool. If they have eggs they will not be in the water. Mostly moulting birds in the water. King and emperor lay only one egg, all others lay two. The first egg smallest and second largest and most often the survivor. King Male sounds different to female. Syntax different. Macaroni penguins. At end of 18th century dandies wore tight waistcoats, heeled shoes, bright wigs and face powder – they went to Italy and when they returned to UK the English called them macaroni. These and the rockhopper are crested penguins. This colour is unique to these two in the whole of nature. Wow! Macaronis are always grumpy and fight all the time. Bad boys of the penguin species.

Cam – pest man on this occasion.

NZ started island pest eradication programs. Off shore island sanctuaries. Rats, rabbits and mice. Special rodent dogs trained to find and also check they have gone. South Georgia 350,000 hectares declared free of rats, mice and reindeer in 2018. Island Eradication advisory Group develop the methodology. Timing of baiting, natural fences, distribution of pests, minimising non- target species, monitoring phase, public perception. Macquarie island 26 million dollars. South Georgia Heritage Trust raised money to do theirs – raised $11m. Glaciers helped as natural fences so could be done by sections. Loving this trip from all the positive information of the action to save these amazing places. Jane Tensel chief dog handler from NZ and South Georgia. Pippets now back and pintail ducks. Many projects underway including Lord Howe and the whole of NZ by 2050. Hundreds of islands going on – check out website of island eradication’s.

Solan – told us that we fought for every moment and with nothing handed to us in South Georgia. 100m chain on the anchor in 12 meters of water so we could anchor in Gold Bay. Bad forecast for the afternoon but we wedged our way in between nastier storms. Does seem an eternity since the Falklands.

Now going to new sea birds and colder. 1500km to the very northern tip of the Antarctic peninsula. 2.5 days sail in good weather. Considering a pass by the south Orkney islands. Rarely visited but might pass due to weather issues. Another option is go for it as weather forecasts have been less optimistic than the reality we have experienced so might be ok. Have to wait and see until later tomorrow. No wake up call tomorrow.

These maps show travel options. Remembering that green is good, purple horrible…

Not sure if I mentioned that those beautiful Pintail ducks I photographed in two places on South Georgia are meat eaters – scavengers!

Dinner menu as I haven’t put one up in a while. Our wine glasses have been replaced with flat bottomed glasses due to swell.

All outer decks are now closed. What Mike calls “strategically placed barf bags” around the place.

Also bowls of ginger. (Which Garrie attacks as he loves it not because he is feeling ill).

We staggered home – literally. I sneezed on one side of the cabin and ended up at the other. Bar Talk was Cam for his work on Macquarie Island – 12 months on the great green sponge in the Nautilus Lounge. Didn’t go. Went to bed. Zzzzzz