Monday 6th January – Crossing the Drake Passage

The events board on the TVs around the ship also include photographs and I was chuffed to see a couple of my pics on the events board today.

Well we have found the “Drake Lake” rather than “the most dreaded piece of ocean on earth” and long may it last.

I am improving, thankfully, but still am washed out so, though Garrie is disappointed we don’t have rough seas, I am very happy for the Drake Lake.

Presentation time: Of Penguins and Men with ornithologist Fabrice in the Nautilus Lounge

What connects us to penguins? From discovery to “happy feet”. Some species are in danger.

Generally live in remote areas so hidden from Europeans. Vasco de gama 1497 jackass penguins African. Next 1520. Magellanic penguin. (Magellan). Francis drake 1578 described as type of a duck or geese that could not fly. They were easy to catch to eat. Caught a lot. Thomas cavendish killed 14000 in one day. 17th century Dutch maps showed penguins. Scientists start to get involved in the 17th century found it hard to classify them. Carl Von Linne 1758 first to say if you have feathers you are a bird he described the jackass penguin. 1766 first to describe as magnificent.

James Cook first to realise they are truly oceanic creatures. John Forster described the chinstrap, gentoo, magellanic. Cook samples included the “woolly penguin” they were actually king penguin chicks. Emperor penguins 1842. Stones in belly. This also led to the indication that Antarctica had land – rock. Adelie named for a discovers wife. Sealers also killed penguin to eat and to use as fire wood. Also used for machine oil. 3 million king and emperor killed which in terms of numbers is more than the number of whales killed.

1918 things stopped as they realised the slaughter was widespread. Public opinion forced an end. Hoosh – ways to cook penguin. Many expeditions only survived because of penguins. Shackleton’s for example. Elephant island is in the south shetlands. Comparisons of penguins to human society.

Edward A Wilson part of Scott expedition artist. He was convinced they were the link between reptiles and birds. However Penguin was not the missing link. Herbert Ponting photographer 1903. First photos of penguins. 1932 started to be used in marketing. 1935 penguin publishing established. 1938 book “mr popper’s penguins” children’s book. Then movies. 1964 mary Poppins penguins first appeared in movies. 1993 life in the freezer bbc David Attenborough. 2005 March of the penguin. 2006 Happy Feet – scientific advice so natural history accurate. 2019 penguins Disney. Penguins attract people – zoos most popular animal. First in a zoo 1914 from South Georgia in Edinborough zoo. They are not allowed to catch any wild penguins now so have to breed in zoo. Sea world San Diego. Wild encounters still the best way to see them.

So why are we so connected? Beautiful cold and remote places. They are also funny creatures. They bring happiness and smiles. They are a reflection of ourselves – walk like babies. Elegant – tuxedo suits. We don’t like apes as much as penguins because they are too close to us. Each penguin type have different personalities. Be your own penguin. Dedicated parents. They seem indestructible. They have survived millions of years of evolution but the problem is can they survive the next 50 years because of us?? only 1% of African penguins left. Plastic pollution and fisheries also a problem. Rockhoppers and Magellanic penguins suffering because of fisheries. Climate change. Ocean temp change changes distribution of their prey eg emperor penguin. Needs sea ice to breed.

Presentation: Strangers in Paradise – Life and Work at an Antarctic Station with your historian Miko in the Nautilus Lounge.

2002 came for a year and now keeps coming back. Three years at the Polish Antarctic station. King George Island. Part of South Shetland.

Highest density of international stations. 8 permanent and 3 summer camps. Approx. 80 km in length. Summer doesn’t really get dark. 24 hours a day to offload the ship bringing fuel and food for at least three years. Takes three days. Most polar stations the buildings are bright colours – helps in snow storms.

Buildings spread out to alleviate the problem of Fire not being able to spread. Diesel generators. Population of about 30 on average. Summer very busy.

Snow can block the doors so all open inwards so you can get out. Can tunnel out or use an opposite door if it is a drift situation. In arctic other way as better polar bears are closing the door rather than easily opening it. Metal palm tree when Miko was station leader but next station leader had it removed as thought it inappropriate. Windy over 100 gusts of over 100kmh in one day. Many well over 250kmh. Roof blown off. Often after extreme weather events the following day is calm so they could fix it. Crevices can be seen in summer but not in winter. Miko fell down crevices twice. First with friends. Second in his own and fell 5m down. Often experienced people die – complacency kills.

USA camp called Copacabana (not its official name). Usually ladies there and near the beach. They go to the polish station to shower and wash clothes. Close relationship. Winter much more isolated as ice stops boats but not solid enough for snow mobiles. Traditional new year swim. Also swim on your birthday. A fur seal snuggled to him in the night he was in a tent. (He was on the inside of the tent and the seal outside).

Special thing about Antarctic is that all stations cooperate and look after each other as it is always potentially deadly. Only place in the world. External politics doesn’t matter.

Main challenge is survival. Antarctica reminds you to be humble and be careful. Sedating elephant seals – large needle stab and run, but have to keep them from going into the water or they would drown. 20 minutes until they sleep. Taking DNA samples which the seals enjoyed as you can see.

Plastic issues. They are the locals we are the guests. Skuas came into station and stole polish sausage. Steal from BBQs. Adelie penguins seen to kill two skuas. They jump and try to pull them down as they fly over. Partner came to try to help the first and was also killed by the penguins. Penguins also seen to kill skua chicks – penguins are not stupid. Winter population at the station about 8. Lots of book reading. Still a few hours of daylight makes life easier. Living in the middle of a beautiful postcard.

After lunch Ocean Endeavour Cinema! A screening of Penguin – Spy in the Huddle Narrated by David Tennant. Excellent and more parts to see.

Swell now definitely increasing but not causing us any issues.

Presentation: Beyond Bases: Penguin Conservation in the Southern Ocean.

Penguins offer a great opportunity to gain insight into oceans at large. Threats – gill nets, long lines, over fishing, invasive species, oil spills, habitat loss and degradation and climate change.

Red areas above average temperatures and blue below average temps. Decline in sea ice and that causes decline in krill. Fisheries taking them for krill oil and aquaculture. penguinwatch.org. Brush tailed penguins. 80 cameras capturing Half a million images a year. (Red dots show camera locations)

Cameras help us understand behaviour and reasons for chick deaths ie snow storms. Can see camera images on their website. Drones used to survey the population of a whole colony. Also use satellite imagery. They look for guano stains.

Can figure out populations from guano stain changes. Can visit all the colonies via their website and see how they are doing. Adelie declining in many areas but in one area are growing, information going to make policy decisions. Guano Samples to find out what they are eating and also parasites.

1 newly discovered penguin colony (Jamie’s Gentoo colony). Quark an important part of allowing this work. Pelagic Australis to get to the South Sandwich Islands. They are going as there are 1.3 million nesting birds. There was an eruption in 2014 in March – moulting time so no idea what has happened since. They know there have been previous eruptions and penguins have come back. Seal watch also coming. Zooniverse. Weddell seals can be individually identified by their markings.

Lots of organisations support their work so support those organisations.

Beer of the day Becks – rated a 4 and he has had it before.

Miko – Belgian expedition. 1897-99. The Gerlache Strait named for the leader of the expedition looking for more information on Antarctica. Amundsen first to South Pole and first to see North Pole. (Norwegian). Nansen of the Antarctic- the cat. 3 languages, 6 nationalities. Plagued with problems. Wiecke island named for a lost sailor from this expedition. Stuck for the winter. First expedition to spend winter here. Ship not released for nearly a year. Used explosives and many ideas to get themselves free. Scurvy and mental problems from darkness. Danco died of a heart attack. Danco island named for him. Raw meat can save from scurvy but crew didn’t want to eat it.

Claire – profound realisation of how amazing this place is. We have a new view of the polar regions. Conservation “polar ambassador program” we can sign up to. Blog etc.. signup at reception. Yes I signed up. Maybe I’ll promote conservation via this trip?

Solan. Not significant weather currently however system to the left coming in and will disrupt the next cruise.

Aiming to visit Cape Horn. Pacific side and round it to the Atlantic side. Midday tomorrow. At the 12 nautical mile limit we ask Chile for permission to approach and see if we can do this.

How exciting that we might see Cape Horn tomorrow.

Time for the fundraising auction.

Gotta love the rules.

Some fascinating items auctioned.

Loads of things from silk cushion covers to coins and whiskey and tumblers and a container of glacial ice from the piece we picked up yesterday morning. The Whiskey and tumblers sold for $400.00. Propellor off a zodiac driven by Stefano. (The one who parked on the iceberg). Sold for $350. Falkland Islands hand-woven wool blanket. $450. Expedition flag. $750.

This Admiralty Chart. Christa, who also ran the boutique, did the artwork. $10,000 paid for it. Total raised. $13,765.00 but I have a feeling it was much more than that and someone missed counted….

I have broken the habit of a lifetime and am no longer coughing on my hand but into the crook of my arm per modern suggestions.

After dinner we were invited to Join Dave in the Nautilus Lounge for his casual bartalk The Post-Apocalyptic Concrete Chicken. Tales from the High Russian Arctic

We missed this again though I have a pic of the concrete chicken. I am still barking in a way that a fur seal would admire.

Finally another towel creature – a frog greeted us in our room. Time for bed and tomorrow Cape Horn! (The purple things are our nightly chocolates – usually on the pillows.)

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ccoop14

I love writing, photography, animals and travel.

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